We are making changes!

Information concerning McCracken County Extension Master Gardeners can now be found on the McCracken County Cooperative Extension Service web site, https://mccracken.ca.uky.edu/horticulture. 

Click the Horticulture tab and you will be directed to the Master Gardener information.  

Weed Control

Jack Ressor

McCracken County Master Gardener

Weeds are unwanted plants growing out of place. They are usually native and compete well with our lawns and landscape plants.

Healthy lawns and landscape plants should be a gardener’s first line of defense against weeds. Proper watering, mowing, and fertilizing are essential to minimizing the weeds in lawns. In garden and vegetable beds, mulch can help keep the weeds down. Mulches can consist of organic manner such as pine bark, cypress, landscape fabrics, saw dust, plastic or even newspaper. Hand pulling is always an option, but can be difficult on hot summer days. Always kill and remove weeds before they flower to prevent seeding the next generation. When these remedies do not work, a gardener can use various herbicides.

There are two major types of herbicide: Pre-emergent and post-emergent.

        

Crabgrass

Pre-emergent herbicides are usually used in the late winter or early spring before the weed seeds germinate. They are best in controlling annual weeds such as crabgrass. These products can be applied as a liquid or in granular form. After germination, they offer little help in controlling weeds. Examples of pre-emergent herbicides are Preen and Scotts Crabgrass Preventer.

         

      Post-emergent products are directed at controlling weeds that have germinated and are easily visible. They are usually more effective when weeds are small, so treat as early as possible. An herbicide may be specific to a certain weed or be active against many weeds. Post-emergent products can be divided into contact or systemic herbicides. Contact herbicides work by contact directly with the plant. Examples are Ortho Grass Be Gone, and Bayer Advanced All-In-One Lawn Weed & Crabgrass Killer. Systemic herbicides are absorbed by the weed causing death. Systemic products may be selective or non-selective. Selective products target certain weeds while not harming desirable plants in the same area. These herbicides include Scotts Lawn Pro Turf Builder with Weed Control. Non-selective materials are used to kill all the vegetation in an area and include Roundup and Ortho Total Kill. Do not let any contact herbicides touch any plants you want to keep. Nonselective herbicides include household items such as salt, vinegar, citric acid and baking soda.

Herbicides are poisons and all contact should be avoided. Use the following guidelines when using them:

1 .      Always read the labels on the herbicide containers and follow the directions before using.

2 .      Wear long pants and shirts, goggles and rubber gloves when using herbicides.

3 .      Wash your any skin contact with soap and water and when finished.

4 .      If an herbicide gets into the eyes, flush the eye slowly with water for 10 to 15 minutes. Check the  label for first aid information and get medical attention as soon as possible.

5 .      Do not breathe the fumes.

6 .      Store herbicides in their original containers out of reach of children (preferably in a locked cabinet)  and away from any food. 

7 .      Avoid disposal problems. Only buy what you need. Never flush unused material down the toilet, sink  or storm drain. Take unused and unwanted herbicides to household hazardous waste collections.  Triple wash any empty containers before disposal into the garbage. Never reuse the containers.

Reference: Washington State University, Spokane County Extension

Let’s learn about Honey Bees!

Beekeeper, Jim Gould will present a program on the importance of honey bees as pollinator of food crops at the August 4 Master Gardener Toolbox. Mr. Gould will be discussing the history of beekeeping to include the importation of honeybees to the Western Hemisphere. 

He will discuss the beekeeper’s calendar (monthly management suggestions), beekeeping equipment, beekeeping habitat, and most importantly, how to become a beekeeper.  He will also offer an overview of pests and discuss the urban beekeeping trend, and, bee safety.  Beekeeping equipment will be available for hands-on inspection.

The presentation will be at 5:00 p.m. at the McCracken County Cooperative Extension Office, 2705 Olivet Church Road in Paducah. There is no fee and no advanced registration required. 

Mason Bees Rock!

by Master Gardener, Brenda Johnson

That BUZZ is excitement about a fantastic little pollinator Osmia Lignaria a.k.a. the Orchard Mason Bee, Blue Orchard Bee, Orchard Bee and Mason Bee, a North American native pollinating bee.  They are members of the genus Osmia that carry pollen on their bellies rather than on their hind legs and they nest in holes. They are one of 140 species of Osmia in North America (4000 species of native bees) and are so efficient at pollinating native crops that they are one of the native bees being managed in agriculture.   Insufficient doses of pollen can result in reduced seed set and undesirable shaped fruits.

Why are they called Mason bees? When building their nests, Mason bees use clay to make partitions and to seal the entrance. This unique mud-building behavior leads to their common designation as masons.

Mason bees are about the same size as a honeybee though smaller and are a dark metallic blue, not striped brown and orange like the honeybee. When in flight they may be mistaken for a black fly.  Look closely, flies don’t have antennae, bees do.  They are about ½ inch long: females about .55 inch, males about .43 inches long.

No need to fear, male Mason bees have no stingers and having no queen to protect and all of the females are fertile, they’re not aggressive.  Only females can sting, though not likely, since the sting is modified from egg-laying structures. Should there be an incident, her sting is more similar to a mosquito bite than your average bee sting.

Being solitary, like most native bees means that each one tends to its own brood, instead of having a queen and worker bees. However, they build their nests together with others of their kind, much like our apartment living. They will also nest in other locations such as hoses, bamboo, abandoned pipes or holes left by other boring insects.  Females generally create seven to eleven cells per nest.

One can make fancy houses or use untreated lumber (4”x6”) or any piece of wood into a nesting block. Holes can be drilled in the wood on 3/4 “centers and should be 4-8" deep, not going completely through to back side.  Drilling holes smaller than a 5/16” diameter tends to produce a higher number of male bees.  Increase sanitation with use of parchment paper or other types of liners to line the holes, just don’t use plastic.  Paper lining can be removed each season to prevent the buildup of fungi and bacteria.

If using PVC pipe filled with paper straws, bamboo, or tubing, the back ends need to be sealed so no invaders can get in through the back door. Masons will occupy paper tubes or paper straws used the previous year. Regardless of style, nests need to be placed on a south-facing garage, house, or garden shed wall with the cavities tilted downward to limit collecting water.  Wind is also a hazard so a secure mount is needed to keep eggs or young larvae from falling out and young babies would be too weak to crawl back inside.

Early spring is prime time to set out your nests.  Mason bees are active in the early spring and summer, mid-March to late May or early June, the time when most of the fruit trees are in bloom.   During this time, female mason bees spend their days buzzing around, gathering pollen and nectar from flowers within a short distance from their nest, about 300 ft. (100 yds.).  This mixture of pollen and nectar becomes the food, “dough ball” that is placed in each chamber for the new egg.  When the right amount of food has been placed in the chamber the female backs in and lays a single egg into the “dough ball”. Then she partitions the cell with a mud wall and starts all over again repeating the action until she has filled the entire tube.  When the female is adding her final mud plug, she’ll go around and around the opening as she works to close the egg chamber, then flies away looking for another hole.

Individual pheromones help them identify their own hole so if she accidentally goes into another bee’s hole, she will quickly back out and find the correct nest.

The first brood cells that the Mason bee makes (those that are furthest back) will develop into female bees, while the ones closer to the entrance will become males. Thus the males emerge first, anywhere from a few days to a few weeks before the females. They spend their time foraging for nectar to build up their strength and buzzing around the nest waiting for the females to emerge. During this time, they do a bit of pollinating but the real contribution made is mating with the females.  Once all the females have been mated, the males die then it is center stage with an all-girl show.  Brood nest building is totally up to the female.

Bees also suffer from predators, and the brood closer to the entrance would be the first to become candy-like food to certain species of flies and wasps that chew through the plugs.  In this way a hungry invader is likely to eat the sacrificial males only and leave the girls safe and sound but sometimes, females often intentionally leave the first cell empty.  As in the world of bees and other species it is all about protecting the females and only a few males need to survive to mate the next spring.  Predators are more apt to take down a nest before a disease can.

The best way to avoid predators is to store the nest in a garage or shed at the end of the active period.  This will give the bee’s added protection from predators and parasites, yet will allow them the needed cold temperatures to break hibernation. If desired, bee emergence can be delayed for a short period by refrigerating the block in the spring until you are ready for the bees to emerge. Bees will need three days to warm up following refrigeration.

Mud, mud, mud is a must have.  It is vital for the ladies to have a mud area available, meaning an open place with no mulch and no grass. Clay soil works best, so no sandy or highly amended soil. It is best to keep the mud area a small distance from the nest so weak emerging bees can’t fall into it.

Pollen, pollen, pollen is another must have.  Mason bees will move to other areas if there isn’t enough pollen in your yard.  Flowers with colors such blue, purple, and yellow (clover and dandelions) are desirable along with the big-leaf maples.  Be on alert to which plants your bees like to visit.  Perhaps you currently have some of the following plants.

•    Trees and Shrubs:  Eastern Redbud, Apple, Currant, Gooseberry, Roses (early blooming, singlevarieties are best), Raspberry, Blackberry, Willow, Plum, Peach, Nectarine, and Viburnums.
•        Perennials and Annuals:  Strawberry, Geranium, Wildflower, Dandelion (mow them while fruit trees are in bloom – you really want them working your fruit and flowers not the lawn).        

Another note, native plants attract native bees, whereas exotic plants attract non-native species.

By autumn, Mason bees have laid their eggs in the nest and they are developing stage by stage.  At this point no bee tends the brood.  The egg hatches and the larva eats the stored food of pollen and nectar, develops on its own, and spins a cocoon, then hibernates in a larval stage known as the prepupa and waits for the first warm days of spring to emerge in your garden. 

When scouting out your garden for these iridescent, metallic dark blue jewels, remember you can develop a partnership.  Your garden can be a Buzz with excitement year after year as long as the bees have sufficient shelter and food, plus you get great fruit and fantastic gardens.  MASON BEES ROCK because they are the best little pollinators.

McCracken County Fair Floral and Horticulture Awards

The Design Section of the McCracken County Fair Flower  Show was held on Thursday, June 25. National Flower  Show Judges Connie Pittman and Ann Hocker of Bowling Green and Beth Garey of Paducah complimented the sponsors  for a creative and beautiful show.  The theme, "See Blue: 150 Years of the University of Kentucky," was interpreted with twenty-six  different floral designs.  Sally Wilkins was awarded Best of Show for her traditional mass design

Other Blue Ribbon winners were Carol Ullerich , Hanging Design; Beth Garey, Illuminary Design; Jessiann McCarthy, Pot-et Fleur Design; and Elisabeth Kelly, Small Design.

Additionally,  twelve youth designs were entered.  Blue ribbons were given to Anison Nelson, Grade K-2; Abby Brown, Grade 3-5, Emily Krall, Grade 6-8, and Shelby Durham Grade 9-12

Following is a complete list of this year's prize winners.

McCracken County Fair Flower Show Results 2015

“See Blue” Horticulture

Sweepstakes Award Winner, Caroly Meredith. 

Best of Show Winner, Melissa Breeden.

Growers Choice Award Winner, Jim Hank.

Annuals: Zinnia-Anne Parmley, Blue. Martha Brown, Red. Macey Wesmolan, Yellow. Debra Hall, White.  Coleus-Kayleigh Collier, Blue. Marigold-Mike Meredith, Blue. Martha Brown, Red. Genet Davenport, Yellow. Begonia-Carolyn Meredith, Blue & Red. Sunflower-Kristi Hanson, Blue. Norman Wallace, Red.  Salvia-Kayleigh Collier, Red. Cleome-Jane Blue, Red. Other Annuals-Norman Wallace, Blue. Jane Blue, Red. Carolyn Meredith, Yellow & White.

Perennials Flowering: Echinacea-Teri Coscarelli, Blue. Anne Parmley, Red. Genet Davenport, Yellow. Phlox-Debra Hall, Blue. Jane Blue, Yellow. Rudbeckie/Cultivar-Anne Parmley, Blue. Debra Hall, Red. Teri Cosarelli, Yellow. Other Perennials Flowering-Anne Parmley, Blue. Debra Hall, Red. Lois Hammet, Yellow. Danielle Mathews, White.

Daylilies: Single-Elisabeth Kelly, Blue. Tami Richards, Red. Norman Wallace, White. Double-Randall Richards, Red. Ruffled-Melissa Thaxton, Blue. Teri Coscarelli, Red. Spider-Marilyn Gross, Blue. Multicolored banded-Elisabeth Kelly, Blue & Red. Randall Richards, Yellow. Norman Wallace, White.

Perennials Foliage: Sedum-Tami Richards, Blue, Danielle Mathews, Red. Elisabeth Kelly, Yellow. Soloman’s Seal-Lois Hammet, Blue. Hellebore-Anne Parmley, Red. Other Perennials Foliage-Nyla Holder, Blue. Mike Meredith, Red. Randall Richards, Yellow.

Roses: Shrub Rose-Danielle Mathews, Blue.

Wildflowers: Spiderwort-Martha Brown, Yellow. Wild Ginger-Anne McNeilly, Blue. Black-eyed Susan-Tami Richards, Blue. Anne Parmley, Red. Other Wildflowers-Anne McNeilly, Blue. Anne Parmley, Red. Sally Wilkins, Yellow.

Bulbs, Corms and Tubers: Gladiolus-Sally Wilkins, Blue. Mike Meredith, Red. Debra Hall, Yellow. Calla Lily-Gage Holder, Blue. Lois Hammet, Red. Asiatic or Oriental Lily-Randall Richards, Yellow. Allium-Randall Richards, Yellow. Other Bulbs, Corms and Tubers-Nyla Holder, Red.

Hosta Leaf: Small-Judy Benton, Blue. Anne Parmley, Red. Medium-Randall Richards, Blue. Nyla Holder, Red. Melissa Breeden, Yellow. Anne Parmley, White. Large-Danielle Mathews, Blue. Beth Garey, Red. Anne Parmley, Yellow. Gage Holder, White.

Ferns: Christmas Fern-Anne McNeilly, Red. Japanese Painted Fern-Elisabeth Kelly, White. Sensitive Fern-Anne McNeilly, Yellow. Other Ferns-Teri Coscarelli, Blue.

Herbs: Basil-Melissa Breeden, Red. Rosemary-Jessiann McCarthy, Blue.

Oregano-Melissa Breeden, Blue. Norman Wallace, Red. Mint-Norman Wallace, Blue.

Lamb’s Ear-Randall Richards, Red. Other Herbs-Danielle Mathews, Blue.

Vines: Any Flowering Vine-Teri Coscarelli, Blue. Anne Parmley, Red.

Trees & Shrubs: Broadleaf Evergreen Tree-Jessiann McCarthy, Blue.  Broadleaf Evergreen Shrub-Tami Richards, Blue. Anne McNeilly, Red. Needled Evergreen Tree-Tami Richards, Red. Needled Evergreen Shrub-Tami Richards, Blue. Danielle Mathews, Red. Deciduous Tree-Danielle Mathews, Blue. Deciduous Shrubs-Melissa Thaxton, Red.

Hydrangea: Mophead-Melissa Breeden, Blue, Red & Yellow. Gage Holder, White. Snowball-Melissa Breeden, Blue. Jane Blue, Red. Gage Holder, Yellow. Lace Caps-Lois Hammet, Red. Oak Leaf-Jane Blue, Red.

Container Grown Plant: African Violet-Diane Shrewsberry, Blue. Mike Meredith, Red. Orchid-Anne McNeilly, Blue. Lois Hammet, Red. Audrey Williams, Yellow. Succulent/Cactus-Jim Hank, Blue, Red, Yellow & White. Vegetables in containers-Teri Coscarelli, Red. Kayleigh Collier, Yellow. Other Container Plants-Mike Meredith, Blue & Red. Kayleigh Collier, Yellow. Carolyn Meredith, White.

Combination Planting: Herbs-Kayleigh Collier, Red & Yellow. Flowering Plants-Carolyn Meredith, Blue & Red. Foliage/Ferns-Carolyn Meredith, Blue & Red. Kayleigh Collier, Yellow. Other Combination Plantings-Jim Hank, Blue & Red.

Hanging Containers: Carolyn Meredith, Blue & Yellow. Mike Meredith, Red.

McCracken County Fair Youth and Adult Vegetable, Fruit & Nut Results 2015

Beans/Bush- Mark Donham, Blue. Charles Frazier, Red. 

Cabbage/Round Small- Charles Frazier, Blue.

Cucumbers-Ken Frye, Blue. Norman Wallace, Red. Charles Frazier, Yellow.

Lettuce/Leaf-Younghee Choi, Blue. Tami Richards, Red. 

Onions/Matured-Norman Wallace, Blue. Charles Frazier, Red. 

Potatoes-Mark Donham, Blue. 

Squash/Yellow Summer-Genet Davenport, Blue. Megan Bohannon, Red. Norman Wallace, Yellow. Charles Frazier, White.

Tomatoes/Green-Megan Bohannon, Blue. Younghee Choi, Red. Charles Frazier, Yellow. Maryanna Frazier, White. 

Tomatoes/Red-Younghee Choi, Blue. Charles Frazier, Red.

Zucchini-Norman Wallace, Blue. Charles Frazier, Red. 

Other Vegetables-Maryanna Frazier, Blue. Megan Bohannon, Red. Tami Richards, Yellow. Charles Frazier, White. 

Blackberries-Pam Heavrin, Blue. Randall Richards, Yellow. 

Blueberries-Anne Parmley, Blue. Randall Richards, Red.

Gooseberries-Randall Richards, Blue. Other Berries-Tami Richards, Blue. 

Apples-Danielle Mathews, Red. Randall Richards, Yellow. 

Other Fruit-Marcey Wesmolan, Blue. Randall Richards, Red.

McCracken County Fair Youth and Adult Field Crops Results 2015

Yellow Corn-Cole Bell, Red. Hay/Grass-Cole Bell, Blue.

McCracken County Fair Design Show Results 2015

Best of Show Design Winner, Sally Wilkins

Blue Skies: Sally Wilkins, Blue. Carolyn Roof, Red. Elisabeth Kelly, Yellow. Anne McNeilly, White.

Blue Moon of Kentucky: Beth Garey, Blue. Jan Boaz, Red. Brenda Johnson, Yellow. Phyllis Petcoff, White.

My Blue Heaven: Carol Ullerich, Blue. Jan Boaz, Red. Morgan Eggemeyer, Yellow. Jane Blue, White.

Am I Blue: Elisabeth Kelly, Blue. Younghee Choi, Red. Shirley Bailey, Yellow. Jessiann McCarthy, White.

Blue Oasis: Jessiann McCarthy, Blue. Martha Hinton, Red. Phyllis Flowers, Yellow. Nancy Flowers, White.

Lavender Blue: Abby Brown, Blue. Emily Krall, Blue. Shelby Durkam, Blue. Anniston Nelson, Blue. Henry Stratenerz, Red. Nyla Holder, Red. Winter Johnson, Yellow. Gracie Egner, Yellow. Lilly Johnson, White. Emerson Binkley, White. Owen Cody, Green. Anna Binkley, Green.

Is it too late to plant a garden?

The answer is yes and no. It is too late to plant vegetables that require a long growing season, like tomatoes, peppers, sweet corn and eggplant. However, there are some plants such as green beans (bush), cucumbers, summer squash and beets planted in mid-July will have time to mature and produce a nice late summer crop. Don’t forget the fall garden; bibb lettuce, broccoli, Brussel sprouts, kale and potatoes are a few vegetables that if planted in July and August can be harvested in September or October.  Detailed information on growing a late summer and fall garden is available in the Home Vegetable Gardening in

Kentucky on the University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension service web site. A free copy of the publication can be picked up at the McCracken County Cooperative Extension Office, 2705 Olivet Church Road in Paducah.

To learn about growing winter squash, please join the McCracken County Extension Master Gardeners for the July 7 Toolbox, Growing and Using Winter Squash in West Kentucky.The session will begin at 5:00 with Norman Wallace, local Master Gardener, presenting.  A brief

slide show will highlight nutritional values, ease of growing and storing, cooking ideas and

referrals to helpful resources for growing butternut, acorn, Hubbard and other winter squashes which are more kin to pumpkins than they are to summer squash.  Wallace has butternut squash in storage from last year's crop and will bring a couple to show.  Squash plants are to be given away, one per person attending, while supplies last that evening. The free program will be presented at the McCracken County Cooperative Extension Office, 2905 Olivet Church Road in Paducah. No advance registration is required. 

Tomato Plant Sale

Supporting our partners, Heath Middle School

Meet Peggy Martin!

From the garden of  Master Gardener, Chris Janne

The Peggy Martin Rose is very hardy and disease free, fast growing, and after established will bloom again in fall along with sporadic flower flushes through the year. Every year, spring will bring a bigger, more spectacular flower explosion than the year before, making it the showpiece of your Garden! Give it room to grow to show its full potential. It is not a once bloomer!!! From the Peggy Martin Rose web site.

Peggy Martin is an old rose that survived after being submerged for 2 weeks in 20-feet of salt water after hurricane Katrina. That is a statement of her strength. The rose has been propagated by Dr. William Welch. A portion of proceeds from the sale of the rose went to help with the rebuilding of the historical gardens in New Orleans. To read more of this fascinating story, visit the Peggy Martin Website.

There are many climbing roses hardy to our Zone 7 area. Listed below are only a few that can be found growing in local gardens.

Madame Alfred Carriere

From the garden of Master Gardener, Chris Janne

Cherokee Rose

New Dawn

Anemone,The Fairy,Old Blush, and Noisette are a few more favorites found in our area.

For information on growing and caring for old climbing roses, visit the National Gardening Association website. 

Irises

As May arrives, so do the beautiful blooms of the irises.

Photo from Master Gardener, Chris Janne

There are hundreds of varieties, both bearded and beardless. Once planted, very little care is required for an abundance of blooms.

When planting the rhizomes, choose a sunny, well drained location.  Amend the soil with bone meal and a good fertilizer 2-3 weeks before planting. Bury the roots but keep the rhizome near the surface. Space the irises about eighteen inches apart with the rhizome facing in the same directions. Once planted the irises rhizome will continue to grow and produce more plants. They will need to be divided about every 3 years, cutting the new growth from the old, discarding the old and replanting or sharing the new. Bearded irises should be divided in July or August. Beardless irises should be divided in early spring or fall. Once the iris bed has matured, there will be plenty to share with friends. All irises are heavy feeders and do best when fed once a year. As with all gardening, a soil test through the Extension Service will determine what nutrients are needed.

The American IrisSociety has detailed information on growing irises and also an Iris Encylopedia with photos and descriptions.

The Garden Department of the Murray Woman’s Club is sponsoring 2^nd Annual Floral and Iris Color Show, Plant Sale and Luncheon at the Clubhouse of the Murray Woman’s Club, 704 Vine Street, Murray, KY. Show registration is from 7:30 am - 9:30 am. You can view the show from 11:00 – 1:30 and enjoy a wonderful luncheon and plant sale from 11:30 – 1:00. For tickets and additional information, you may contact Linda Scott, 270-753-7944 or lscott187@gmail.com

The following are from the Dennis Dreyer Collection.

Spring showers bring weeds.

Spring showers bring May flowers is true; it also brings weeds. Not only are weeds an eyesore, but they also compete with desirable plants for nutrients, water and sunlight.

See all those little seeds? With a little wind, they will become new dandelions.

It is important they are destroyed before they go to seed and spread. There are several ways to control the weeds for successful and beautiful gardens.

While hand pulling is the most desirable, it is not always the most practical except in small areas. Pulling while the weeds are small and the ground is moist works best. It is important to remove the roots.

Solarization with clear plastic will work on annual weeds but must be done early in the season.

Mulching, both organic and inorganic, is also useful in controlling weeds.

If using chemical weed control, it important to follow the directions carefully. Keep in mind, preemergence herbicides do not kill existing weeds; they keep weed seeds from germinating.

For more information on controlling weeds, refer to the University of Kentucky Extension Service publication Home Vegetable Gardeningin Kentucky.

A few of the common weeds found in Western Kentucky.

Purslane

Creeping Charlie, Ground Ivy

Nutsedge

Crabgrass

An excellent source for weed identification can be found here.

The (almost) Carefree Garden

What are the best plants for garden that provide color, shape and texture while requiring very little care? Without a doubt, it would be succulents.

Photo from The Succulent Source 

No longer limited to hens and chicks, cacti and jade plants, most garden centers carry an extensive variety of colors, sizes and shapes. Used for ground cover, in containers, in formal gardens as well as for artistic designs, succulents are seen everywhere.

Native to a dry environment, they store water in their leaves and stems, requiring watering once a month; smaller plants may need watering more often. Perfect for the busy (or lazy) gardener!

Photo from Master Gardener, Chris Janne

When planting, attention should be given to drainage as wet soil will cause the roots to rot. In the garden choose a sandy, rocky location or add sand to the soil. For containers, try using a bagged soil formulated especially for succulents. They will survive an extended period of time planted in sphagnum moss. The moss, not the plants, will need to be soaked in water occasionally. Debra Lee Baldwin has written several good books on growing and designing with succulents.

While they need bright light, they should be protected from long periods of time in direct sunlight; 3-4 hours of direct sunlight will keep them happy without giving them sunburn.

Some succulents are cold hardy in our Zone 7a, but most will need to be wintered over inside, preferably in a greenhouse or basement with supplemental lighting.

No plant is easier to propagate than succulents. Take a leaf (or use one that falls off), lay aside in a sheltered spot for a few days so the cut will callus. Stick the callused end in soil, water thoroughly and it will root. Do not keep the soil damp, water when the soil is completely dry.

In areas where there is heavy rain in the spring and fall, succulents in container should be in a covered area to prevent their roots from sitting in wet soil. When the rainy season is over, they can be moved to the patio or other outdoor spaces.

Avoid over-watering and succulents are perfect for an almost carefree garden. For inspiration and more details, visit The Succulent Perch website. (If you find background music annoying, you may want to mute the sound while visiting their page.)

Container Gardening

Regardless of the size of your outdoor living area, you can have a garden. Many successful gardens are on balconies, decks, patios and even rooftops. Whether you want to surround yourself with lovely blooms, create privacy from the neighbors or have fresh, organic vegetables at your fingertips, you can do it in containers. Horticulture Agent, Kathy Wimberley will be presenting a program

on container gardening at the McCracken County Extension Office on Tuesday April 7 at 11:00 a.m. For more details, call the Extension Office at 270-554-9520

Protect those tender plants!

Spring has arrived! Daffodils are in full bloom, new growth is showing on shrubs, plants are emerging from hibernation and gardeners are anxious to get out and play in the dirt. Keep in mind, tender plants are still at risk for frost bites and freezing. According to the Farmer’s Almanac, the average date for the last freeze of the season in our zone (7 a) is April 7. If you absolutely must put some plants in the ground, keep something handy to cover them and keep a watch on the weather forecast. We like this idea posted on the Extension Master Gardener Facebook page.

Those plastic zipper bags that come with bedspreads and linens can make great temporary greenhouses. Remember to allow for air circulation.

It is best to wait a few weeks before planting plants like tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and others that need warm soil to grow. The University of Kentucky Extension Service recommends setting out these transplants when the soil reaches 70 degrees. For more information download a copy of Home Vegetable Gardening in Kentucky. The publication is also available for free at the McCracken County Extension Office, 2705 Olivet Church Road in Paducah.

The Good, the Bad, the Ugly

The good, the bad and the ugly in the home garden; what does that mean?

Obviously the good is luscious fresh vegetables and beautiful flowers. As gardeners, we all know that, in spite of our good intentions and hard work, it doesn’t always happen. Often it is because we don’t use the best fertilizer or perhaps we use the incorrect amount and therefore we have the bad. 

The ugly is when we use fertilizer incorrectly and our environment suffers the consequences.

So, how can we have beautiful, productive gardens while protecting our environment? Master Gardener, Jack Resser, will explain the elements that make up fertilizer and how to use it safely while protecting our natural resources at the April 7^th  Toolbox, at 5:00 p.m. at the McCracken County Extension Office, 2705 Olivet Church Road in Paducah. The free program does not require advance registration and qualifies for one educational hour for Master Gardener certification. 

Raised Beds are now the Traditional Way to Garden

Each year, more gardeners are transitioning to raised beds and for good reason.

Photo from Your Life Today Magazine

Maintenance is at the top of the list. Since the garden is constrained to an enclosed area, usually 4 feet by 4 or 6 feet, it is easier to keep ahead of the weeds without the use of chemicals. And it is out of the reach of creeping Bermuda grass!  The beds can be any depth from one to four or more feet, making it easy to sit on the edge and pull weeds (a welcome relieve from bending or kneeling) They can also be built to accommodate gardening from a wheel chair.

The soil drains much better in a raised bed allowing earlier planting and preventing water pooling from spring rains. Since a raised bed dries quicker, special attention should be given to watering during the dry months.

Photo from the garden or Master Gardener Chris Jannne

Raised beds easily lend themselves to hoop houses made with plastic and PVC pipes, extending the growing season for several months. An easy method for creating a hoop house can be found on the Grow Organic website.

Raised beds can be made from a huge variety of materials, wood, brick, stone, plastic, repurposed barrels, or just about anything that can hold soil and provide drainage. When using repurposed materials one should take care that its previous use was not for a toxic substance.

Because they can be built to almost any specification, raised beds are a garden designer’s dream. Whether it is on a patio, terraced on a slope or any a formal garden, raised beds can not only be functional but attractive.

Local gardener, Phyllis Robertson, will share her experiences with raised bed gardening at the  McCracken County Master Gardener Toolbox on March 3. The presentation will be at 5:00 p.m. at the McCcracken County Extension Office, 2705 Olivet Church Road in Paducah.There will be no charge and no advance registration is required.

An in-depth article on raised bed gardening can be found on the The University of Missouri website.